FRC FOAMIES F15 MK2 COMPLETE

Hi everyone -

After almost a month, I finally got around to finishing off my FRC Foamies F15 MK2...:)

My paint scheme was inspired by/loosely based on a paint scheme I found for the Israeli Air Force version of the F15E Strike Eagle, the F15I Ra'am (Thunder).  The real paint scheme is much more muted than mine, but I think having a little extra contrast will help me keep track of it in the sky.  I left the bottom mostly unpainted for contrast and to save a bit of weight.

My build -

• 6mm depron with 4mm dollar store foam for Kf4 airfoils.  Constructed primarily with Foam Tac glue with a few dabs of hot glue, epoxy, Gorilla glue and 3M Super77 spray adhesive here and there as needed.  I used 4mm carbon rod for my wing spar and used 3mm carbon tube to reinforce my elevons, vertical stabilizers and a small piece across the back deck behind the prop slot;
• my power setup is the NTM Prop Drive 2700 with a 6x4 APC prop, Turnigy Plush 60A ESC and 2200 3S battery;
• I'm using a 6 channel receiver from Hobby King compatible with my Turnigy er9x, the rudders are attached with a Y harness, all other servos each have their own channel which makes setup and fine tuning so much easier.  I used 9 gram metal gear servos for the elevons and 9 gram nylon gear servos for the ailerons and rudders; and
• all leading edges are bevelled and sanded along with a good overall sanding and smoothing of the plane and all sharp edges for looks and to help it be a bit sleeker as it goes through the air.  Paint is acrylic craft paint from the dollar store/Walmart/craft store.

A few mods I made to the build -

• as I did on my F15 MK1 and as recommended by Jay from FRC Foamies, I put my elevons on the wing plate, not on the piece of foam from the plans.  It might now look quite as scale, but it eliminates a piece of foam from the prop wash, gives more clearance for the elevons on landing and made it easier for me to install my servos and pushrods for the elevon servos;
• I extended the prop slot back about 5/8" to 3/4" and bevelled the back edge to help with smoother airflow;
• I went with one 4mm carbon spar for my wing and did not use the two other spars recommended in the plan that run parallel to the leading edge of the wing;
• I cut some small triangular vents behind the canopy and on the back of the electronics bay door to encourage airflow through the electronics bay.  As such and because I ended up with my battery so far forward, I didn't use the middle fuse support per the plans;
• I put my ESC on the bottom of the plane, I cut a hole in the bottom of the fuse in which to recess the ESC, then cut holes in the wing plate to put the wires through and to run a zip tie to secure it in place.  Stealing and idea from Flitetest, I put a small piece of popsicle stick under the zip tie so it wouldn't chew up the foam too bad when I cinched it down, works great!;
• since the way I built I ended up with considerable weight behind the CofG, I had to put my battery way forward under the canopy.  To make access to the battery easier, I had to cut off my canopy, but it is held on with magnets.  It actually makes life a little easier as it is easier to get at and manipulate the battery there than moving it around in the narrow electronics bay; and
• there is a section of the Kf2 airfoil that extends back along the fuselage to the prop slot, I cut that off and also did not use the "upper engine nacelle" piece from the plans to cut down on weight and keep the profile sleek.

Overall I am very impressed with the looks of this new plane, very sleek and more scale looking than the MK1 and it looks fast just sitting on the work table!  I have shot a walkaround video to discuss my build process/techniques in greater detail and will be publishing that when it has finished processing.

Weather forecast does not look great for the next few days, maiden will occur as soon as the weather Gods permit!

Cheers,

Scott